FEED.

Bad weather puts a tremendous demand on a horse’s body to continue producing heat. For each decrease of 1-degree Fahrenheit below critical temperature (from 60 to 30 degrees, depending on hair coat), the horse’s digestible energy requirements increase by 1% to maintain body temperature.1 Ask your veterinarian to guide you on how much more to feed your outdoor horses, especially if cold spells in your area generally last extended periods of time. Remember, you cannot suddenly adjust the amount of grain ration without increasing the risk of colic and laminitis (founder). Unfortunately, most horses experience loss of body condition during extended periods of freezing temperatures, no matter how well they are fed. Start the early winter season by getting your horse into good condition.

BLANKETS.

Horses that live outdoors should be allowed to grow a long winter hair coat. This furry covering is more insulating than a blanket. A heavy hair coat traps the body heat against the skin. Additionally, leave the hair within the ears and around the fetlocks; this is additional protection. However, a thick hair coat can camouflage body condition, so be sure to assess the horse’s condition frequently by feeling the area over the ribs. To tell if a horse is cold, feel its ears–if they are cold, the horse is cold.

If the horse has been clipped, or recently moved from a warm climate to a colder one, a blanket should be used. If the horse doesn’t usually wear a blanket, check frequently to see that the animal is not sweating under the blanket. Remove the blanket immediately if the horse’s body is damp, then dry the haircoat.

Choose the appropriate blanket depending on the amount of protection needed, and make sure it fits properly. Too tight, and the blanket will chafe the skin; too large, the blanket can slip down under the belly, with the potential for the legs to get tangled. Make it a practice not to share blankets between horses. Ringworm, fungus, and other infections can be easily spread on blankets and sheets.

FEET.

No Foot, No Horse. Absolutely true, and more so in winter. If your riding horse is shod, pull the shoes unless you are riding indoors on a regular basis; if you ride outdoors, have your farrier add shoes with borium or steel studs to grip the ice. Horses kept outdoors should be unshod. Ice can pack into the hoof area surrounded by the shoe, and this increases the possibility of slipping on snow or ice. Keep your hoof maintenance program running through the winter. Trim every six to eight weeks to prevent cracking and breakage of brittle hoof walls impacting frozen ground. Don’t trim too close, or your horse can suffer from bruised feet, which can lead to laminitis.

SHELTER. Shelter is very important In regions were winter is freezing for months on end. Horses adapt to weather conditions very well, but brutal winds and heavy moisture would totally get into them. A run-in shed with three sides and a slanted roof is adequate for shire horses.

• Outdoors – The open side of the shed must face away from the prevailing wind, and the shed should be situated in a spot with adequate drainage.

• Indoors – Stalls will need to be maintained daily and replenished with clean, dry bedding. Even on the coldest days, crack the barn door slightly to provide ventilation and keep fresh air moving through the space.

WATER. This is probably the single most important need during a bad weather. Though horses need less water in cold weather, they also drink less. In fact, they often do not drink too much to stay hydrated. An adult full-size horse needs at least 6 liters of fresh water daily to maintain good health and condition.